Sabato De Sarno aims to revitalise Kering with collection

Gucci’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno, presented a collection of wool coats during the Milan fashion show, showcasing his strategy to revitalise Kering’s brand with understated designs. The fashion models walked down a slightly raised runway in a minimalist, light-filled venue, donning luxurious wool coats, bustier dresses, and tailored suit jackets with slender belts.

In addition to the signature chunky loafers, mini-shorts, and glossy Jackie handbags introduced under the new designer’s leadership, the show featured thigh-high riding boots, crescent-shaped small purses, towering platform heels, and sheer dresses embellished with lace. De Sarno’s creations, gradually making their way into stores, play an important role in boosting sales at Gucci, Kering’s brand responsible for half of the luxury group’s revenue and over two-thirds of its profits.

Following a recent restructuring of top management within the French group, executive Jean-Francois Palus was dispatched to Italy to oversee the brand’s shift towards a more upscale positioning. This move involves a renewed focus on classic styles and leather goods to recapture market share lost to competitors such as LVMH’s Dior and Louis Vuitton.

While De Sarno’s designs are expected to be fully available in stores later in the year, potentially by June, initial feedback has been positive, as indicated by Kering’s Deputy CEO Francesca Bellettini earlier this month. Despite forecasting lower margins for 2024 due to ongoing investments in Gucci, UBS analysts have highlighted early indications of an “enhanced brand appeal,” affirming that Gucci is currently in a stronger position than in previous periods.